Luxury Watch Terminology:

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A Guide for Enthusiasts & Collectors

Understanding watch terminology is essential for making an informed purchase, whether you’re a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer. Below, we’ve compiled a glossary of commonly used watch industry terms to help you navigate the world of luxury timepieces with confidence.

While we strive to describe each model accurately, if you have any questions or need clarification on a specific term, feel free to contact us—our team of experts is here to help!

A

  • Analogue: A traditional watch that displays time with rotating hour and minute hands, following a classic twelve-hour format.
  • Automatic Watch: A self-winding mechanical watch powered by wrist movement. If it stops, manually winding it 30+ times restores function.
  • Automatic Movement: The internal mechanism that powers an automatic watch, featuring a rotor that moves with wrist motion to keep the watch running.

B

  • Base Metal: Non-precious metals like steel or brass used in watchmaking, valued for their durability and affordability.
  • Battery: The power source in quartz watches, typically 1.5V for analog models and 3.0V for digital models.
  • Bezel: The ring surrounding a watch’s crystal, often rotating (uni- or bi-directionally) for measuring time intervals, commonly found in dive and aviation watches.
  • Bi-Color: A two-tone finish that combines different metals, often gold and stainless steel, creating a distinctive contrast.
  • Bracelet: A metal watch strap, typically composed of removable links to adjust fit.
  • Buckle: The fastening mechanism of a watch strap, available in various shapes and materials.

C

  • Carat (Karat): A measurement of gold purity. Pure gold is 24 carats; common watch alloys include 18K (75% gold) and 14K (58% gold).
  • Case: The outer housing of a watch, usually made of stainless steel, gold, or platinum, protecting the internal movement.
  • Case Back: The rear cover of a watch, often displaying engravings, water resistance ratings, or transparent windows showcasing the movement.
  • Chronograph: A watch with stopwatch functionality, featuring sub-dials to measure elapsed seconds, minutes, or hours.
  • Complication: Any additional function beyond basic timekeeping, such as a chronograph, moon phase, or perpetual calendar.

D

  • Dial (Face): The surface displaying the watch’s hands, hour markers, and complications, often made of brass, silver, or enamel.
  • Dolphin Standard: A waterproof rating (exclusive to Rotary Watches) allowing for prolonged exposure to water, including yachting and showering.
  • Duo Time (Travelcentric): A watch with two independent time displays for tracking multiple time zones.

G

  • GMT: A complication that displays a second time zone, ideal for frequent travelers.

H

  • Hallmarks: Stamps on gold or silver watches verifying metal purity and authenticity.
  • Hands: The moving indicators on a watch face that point to the hour, minute, and sometimes seconds. Styles include Alpha, Sword, Breguet, and Dauphine.

L

  • Lug: The small extensions on a watch case that connect to the strap or bracelet.

M

  • Mechanical Watch: A manually wound watch powered by a mainspring instead of a battery, often valued for craftsmanship and tradition.
  • Mineral Glass: A durable watch crystal offering scratch resistance, but not as tough as sapphire glass.
  • Moonphase: A complication that displays the current phase of the moon.
  • Movement: The internal mechanism of a watch, responsible for keeping time. Common types include quartz, mechanical, and automatic movements.

P

  • Perpetual Calendar: A complication that automatically adjusts for months with different lengths, including leap years.
  • Power Reserve: A feature that indicates how much energy remains in a mechanical watch’s mainspring before needing to be wound.
  • PVD Plating: A process that enhances the durability of gold-plated watches, preventing discoloration.

Q

  • Quartz Movement: A highly accurate movement powered by a battery and regulated by a quartz crystal.

S

  • Sapphire Glass: A synthetic crystal offering superior scratch resistance and clarity, often used in high-end watches.
  • Screw-Down Crown: A crown that screws into the watch case, enhancing water resistance.
  • Swiss Made: A designation signifying that a watch’s movement was assembled, tested, and regulated in Switzerland, ensuring high-quality craftsmanship.
  • Stainless Steel: A durable, rust-resistant alloy commonly used in watch cases and bracelets.
  • Strap: A flexible band (leather, rubber, or fabric) that secures a watch to the wrist.

T

  • Tachymeter: A bezel or dial scale that calculates speed based on travel time.
  • Tourbillon: A sophisticated mechanism that counteracts gravity’s effects on a watch’s movement, enhancing precision.

W

Water Resistance: A rating indicating how well a watch withstands exposure to water. Ranges from splash-proof to deep-sea diving levels.


Understanding these terms will help you make an informed decision when selecting your next luxury timepiece. Still have questions? Contact Watch Guru—our team of experts is happy to assist with personalized recommendations and insights.